It’s time to suit up for the cooler seasons. The Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 collections were stuffed full of suiting and workwear inspired ensembles, as designers re-interpreted this classic wardrobe staple. The daily grind never looked so chic!
Givenchy’s Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 collection was subtly segmented into three general categories; street, fashion and classic. The collection featured a wide variety of looks which came together to create an unmistakably high-fashion, yet very wearable, aesthetic. Comprising of a careful balance of beautifully tailored pieces and innovatively designed statement items, the collection conveyed a mature sophistication, imbued with modern edge. Suits were plentiful, cut in soft fabric with a subtle flair in the pants to create a long, languid silhouette. The palette underlying Givenchy’s collection moves from vibrant, with contrasting candy hues, to muted oatmeals and blacks. A head-to-toe suit epitomized the modern elegance of Tisci’s designs, and was accessorized with a large geode chain necklace, which bought a haute-couture feel to the female friendly designs.
Missoni took us back to their 1970’s heyday, with a collection which mixed androgynous suiting with jersey mini-dresses designed to disco. The collection was clearly split into eveningwear and daywear, with the respective palettes conveying which category the item was intended for. The daywear was subdued, with plaid knits, cropped flare pants and suiting - shown in a plaid. The eveningwear was more lively, with colourful metallic knits in a wider version of the classic Missoni zigzag. The effect was a little space age and a little disco, with statement pieces aplenty. Overall, the collection cleverly acknowledged Missoni’s past successes, while spanning new ground and continuing to craft innovative designs.
‘Don’t mess with Mugler’ is the no-nonsense vibe of the label’s pre-Fall/Winter 2017 collection. Showcasing some serious shoulder pads, the collection was all sharp lines and dramatic touches. The drama of the collection somewhat obscured the wearability and female-friendliness of Koma’s designs, which were generally quite classic. The collection’s palette was monochromatic with injections of rich jewel tones; reds, royal blues, and forest greens bought a refined and mature air to the sensual collection. Suits played a strong role in creating Koma’s powerful female aesthetic, mainly presented in black, save for one standout suit in a red wine hue. The jackets had planed shoulders and wide lapels, and Koma played with pant proportions - showing both an extreme wide leg and a tailored cigarette pant cut.
Bonjour Hermès. The Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 collection is 1970’s Paris in a nutshell, with softly feminine silhouettes and a nonchalant air. The colour palette comprised of muted tones and deep rich hues perfect for a morning walk along the Seine. Collarless coats and jackets were cut with precise lines, giving them a boxy look. Hermès only presented one suit, with a straight cut pant, and wide-lapelled jacket. The deep forest green gave the collection a more wintery, hygge feel.
Sleek, ladylike elegance was personified in Prabal Gurung’s Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 collection. Softly draped fabrics and 1940’s inspired designs gave a hint of whimsy to the collection, which contrasted with the modern workwear shapes present throughout the collection. The overall effect was one of understated empowerment. The suits were subtle, not the main focus of the collection, and cut with slim lines and a slight flare to the leg. A softly cut suit in a pinkish ivory was exemplary of Prabal Gurung’s approach to workwear; a classic cut of suit with the addition of draped statement sleeves, perfectly espousing an essence of feminine intrigue.
Stella McCartney is not one to be predictable, and her latest collection brought together a mix of influences which embody the eclectic, style-conscious spirit of McCartney’s customers. Ranging from extravagant fur jackets (faux, of course) to sharply cut suits, the collection was unapologetically fun. A touch of Anglomania was brought in through Argyle knits, and Prince of Wales plaid suits. McCartney’s suits had oversized jackets and slim cut pants, which gave them a cool-girl, androgynous, 1960’s feel.
Versace’s Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 show was unusually refined, with modern shapes, and ladylike styling, while a mixture of prints created a futuristic mood. The palette was seasonally appropriate, with black, deep mauve, and splashes of orange and a muted blue, and was carried through the entire collection with little variation. Suits were relatively scarce and subtle in colour, save for one which utilised the collection’s entire palette in a curved, whorl design. The suits were cropped with a slit at the front of the leg, and contrasting black lapels. Thick-soled boots and heels brought a little of that Versace danger to collection.
Gucci’s current resurgence, thanks to Alessandro Michele’s wildly popular designs, is continuing to go from strength to strength. Each of Michele’s collections contains an incredibly wide range of influences and ideas, which tell intricately layered stories. Michele weaves together concepts which should not work together, but the mood of eccentricity allows clashing prints and styles to exist in a maximalist harmony. Crowd pleasing items destined to show up on a range of style influencers mix with more artistic pieces, such as a suit with cropped wide legs and a hood.