Whoever said orange is the new pink is seriously disturbed,” claimed Reese Witherspoon in Legally Blonde circa 2001. For approximately sixteen years, this remained true – but the Spring/Summer 2018 runways offered irrefutable proof that citrus hues as the new Millennial Pink are finally upon us. Across a multitude of shows, the contents of a fruit bowl provided designers with endless colour inspiration appropriate to the summer season. A few sources have eagerly proclaimed that Millennial Yellow is the hue du jour, but the emergence of an array of yellows and oranges in everything from sheeny metallic to soft pastel seem to point to a much more dynamic trend than that of 2017’s hottest shade. Oranges and yellows make an irrefutable statement and are more often than not worn by the bravest consumers. As such, the citrus trend is one which will lend itself more to the higher end and more high fashion brands.
If you were looking for the intersection of modern streetwear and 80’s windsurfing chic, you would find that specific aesthetic within Rihanna’s Fenty X Puma Spring/Summer 2018 show. The neon hues, high cut swimsuits and vast amount of scuba fabric came together to give collection it’s unmissable watersports vibe while modern trends peeked through the unique designs. Off the shoulder styles reigned supreme - a surprise considering many trend analysts considered exposed clavicles to be past its heyday. Orange made several appearances, in a colour close to Resene Sebedee juxtaposed with complementary marigold yellow accents. Toggles are also having a moment in the sun, although the jandal stilettos were more divisive and probably won’t catch on.
Speaking of opposing influences, Elisabetta Franchi’s collection combined Little House On The Prairie, Baroque-era France and Lara Croft from Tomb Raider. While the first two sound like they would mesh well, the latter fitted in surprisingly well. The Tomb Raider influence was felt through belting and harnesses, as well as the black thigh high boots which were paired with frilled lace mini dresses. Hats were the main feature and were the finishing touch to every outfit. The palette was also a contradiction - dramatic, stark monochromes stood out amongst soft lemon yellow hues (akin to Resene Drover), and western-style light wash denim.
Calvin Klein’s collection was an artistic explosion at the start of New York Fashion Week, and a buttercup yellow dress near to Resene Bright Sun in rubber paired with pink elbow length gloves was re-posted all around Instagram heralding the beginning of Fashion Month. Designer Raf Simons drew inspiration from the American dream, and juxtaposed this with horror-film motifs, commenting succinctly on the state of modern America. With 307 mass shootings occurring within the continental US in only 309 days, the red paint splattered clothing took on a sobering significance. Amongst Simons’ designs, the 1950’s were an earmarked decade, with feminine tailoring and designs counteracted by their sporting-material fabrications. The shiny surfaces of his clothing emanated toughness - a life-proof uniform for wearers from which the political and social turmoil could simply be wiped away like an errant kitchen spill.
The epitome of retro poolside glamour is no longer Miu Miu. Fellow Italian design guru, Emilio Pucci staged a silent takeover and has stealthily scored the best sun lounger. Pairing Jackie Onassis sunglasses with towels which swathed the heads of models, designer Massimo Giorgetti’s summery vision was an ode to Mediterranean styling and the heavily patterned history of Pucci. The swirling prints were made up of a soft palette - blues, greens, pinks and oranges (in Resene Consuela).
Taking inspiration from Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone’s arguably most sartorially advanced character, Professor Quirrell, Marc Jacobs showed turbans for Spring/Summer. The turbans were jewel-hued, a perfect match to the collection which was vibrant, patterned and heavily sequined. In terms of design; Jacobs showed a wide-ranging collection, featuring key trends of the season - lightweight transeasonal layers and 1950’s femininity. There were fanny packs, oversized suiting and utilitarian 80’s-style sportswear. Très on trend. Yellow was lemon and electric - close to Resene Dolly.
The retro surfer aesthetic has unexpectedly snuck into several collections and seems to be the micro-trend of the incoming season. Isabel Marant, the darling of French girl-favoured fashion, crafted a succinct collection which exuded effortless chic (as per usual). Ruffles and broderie started things out in an innocent manner, and gave way to 80’s surfer styles with crochet swimwear, multi-coloured windbreakers and choker-length leis. Thick-soled strappy sandals and bold colour blocking completed the vibe. The palette also had an 80’s feel - deep greens mixed with purples, browns and yellow close to Resene Bright Spark.
Emilia Wickstead always produces something along the lines of a high fashion, yet refined, dinner party and Spring/Summer 18 was no different. The collection was sculptural yet soft with a vintage feel and the typical Wickstead sense of modest restraint. A soft palette consisted of whites, pinks and blues. The occasional bold pops of colour came through in a bold yellow close to Resene Happy.
Seventies utilitarian power dressing was the order of the day at Derek Lam. The collection was an effortless breath of fresh air during New York Fashion Week, with female-friendly, wearable clothes. A nature-inspired palette included leafy greens, khakis and a buttery yellow hue close to Resene Cream Can.