Alexander McQueen’s SS26 collection focused on power.
The tailoring was strong and the shapes were precise. However, the designs sometimes looked tight, and movement restricted.
Jackets set the direction. They pulled in at the waist and lifted at the shoulder. Skirts stayed slim and close, while trousers dropped straight with no break. Dresses used corset-style seams that held the torso firmly. The effect was clear and structured, but perhaps not easy to wear.
Fabric choices added to that feeling. Wool, leather and dense cotton were used again and again. These gave weight and strength but also made the line heavy. Lighter silks and chiffon showed up in a few looks. They gave some relief, but they were brief and didn’t change the overall mood.
The colour story was simple. Black and red made up most of the collection. White and silver provided added contrast. The impact was strong, but the colour palette left little space for softer notes.
Accessories followed the same line. Tall boots, structured bags and bold jewellery added to the outline. Hair was slicked back and make-up was minimal. The styling kept everything sharp and strict.
There is no doubt about the craft. The cuts were exact and the finish was clean. But without flow, the clothes felt harsh. They looked impressive on the runway but harder to imagine in the everyday.
The confidence in tailoring and cut was there, but the warmth was not. A touch of softness or more relaxed fabric choices could bring balance.
