Couture designers are keeping us warm through the winter with a slew of fur jackets being shown through the Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 collections. A departure from the staid, realistic look of your grandmother’s mink; these candy coloured confections are eye-catching and modern.
Karl Largerfeld’s collection for Fendi Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 showed every fur jacket imaginable, from two-tone capes to bomber-style jackets. Largerfeld created a palette which was muted, with a vintage-inspired feel, and playful splashes of colour. A knee-length fur coat in a buttery shade of yellow close to Resene Cream Can perfectly epitomised the maximalist collection. Accessories were plentiful - sunglasses, gloves, scarves, and lace tights - and gave the modestly cut clothing a youthful verve.
MaxMara’s Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 collection had a distinct ice queen feel, with stark white tones dominating the first half of the show. While the clothing had a classic, ladylike feel, the slicked back hairstyling and dramatic black lipstick gave the collection a fresh look. Feminine silhouettes were predominant, with wide belts layered over dresses and outerwear alike. The white hues gave way to blacks, charcoals and then pale turquoise and lemon - giving the collection a 1980’s feel. Fur coats completed the wintery look, shown in both hip length and calf length, in white, camel and a light blue close to Resene Pattens Blue.
Blumarine are no strangers to brightly coloured fur coats, having used them in several previous Fall/Winter collections. However, the 2017-2018 collection was more maximalist than previous collections, incorporating printed fabrics, pleats, lace, and tweed. Fur coats were featured in a variety of cuts and hues, from an orange akin to Resene Sebedee to leopard prints with a blueish tinge. Embracing the unnatural, Blumarine’s furs were statement pieces, and bought a millennial, street-style feel to the collection.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second collection for Dior balanced forward-thinking design with the French house’s chic heritage. The aesthetic was an intriguing melange of equestrian inspired shapes, floaty mesh accents, and embroidery reminiscent of folk-dresses. The concepts may sound conflicting, but the result was an eminently wearable collection, filled with female-friendly pieces, and impeccable tailoring. Chiuri has welcomed the logo-mania currently trending, bringing back the J’adore Dior motto, which she used sparingly in small black and white letters across the waistband of high-waisted underwear, shown under a mesh ballgown. Fur played a small, but noticeable, part in Chiuri’s collection, with shrug style jackets in a shaggy wool, and longer jackets in soft fur. The collection’s most striking jacket was made up of pentagonal patches of fur in whites, greys, browns and soft pink tones similar to Resene Paper Doll.
Riccardo Tisci staged a futuristic show amidst a dramatic architectural setting in Copenhagen. Tisci’s new look for the Givenchy woman was an eclectic mix of influences, subtly blended together to create an impeccably tailored collection. Vibrant hues underpinned the standout looks from the collection; as Tisci combined deep red, with sunshine yellow and a soft pink hue similar to Resene Princess. The pairing of a soft pink fur jacket with red tights was an unorthodox, yet eye-catching colour blocking statement.
Elie Saab’s models were a vision of rocker-chic at his Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 show. Garbed in black, with leather accents and splashes of green velvet, Saab’s collection was a progression of the disco feel of his Spring/Summer 2017 show. Saab’s feminine tailoring was complimented by touches of delicate lace, which created the whimsical aesthetic that epitomises Saab’s designs. Embroidered leather jackets and dramatic fur jackets added to the rock ‘n roll vibe, with furs shown in both monochrome and a light blue similar to Resene Half Opal.
Each x Other’s collection had a modern feel, with urban influences and unique design elements. The traditionally androgynous brand showed a palette of deep, muted tones, accented with occasional pops of red similar to Resene Rock N Roll. The collection featured slim-fitting suits for women, soft silk ruffles and distressed denim pieces. A refined air typified the collection, and the fur jackets, despite their statement item status, seemed restrained and sophisticated.
Miuccia Prada often imbues her little sister brand, Miu Miu, with vintage vibes. Her Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 was no different, drawing inspiration from 40’s and 50’s silhouettes, styles and accessories. Varsity jackets and poodle skirts were thick on the ground, with Miu Miu’s signature girly accents everywhere. Fur coats were unmissable, cut with thick lapels and shown in eye-catching animal prints or red or pink, close to Resene Glamour Puss.
