Denim: Raw and Unleashed

Denim’s fresh, new-season look is all about raw hems; a trend which has been embraced by celebrities and designers alike.  While raw hemmed denim debuted on jean hems, a myriad of forward-thinking designers have incorporated the edgy detailing into their collections in a variety of forms, from a subtle addition to a neat, tailored garment, to a pronounced component of a heavily distressed item.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s SS17 collection emanated youthful, feminine nonchalance.  Floaty, ruffled dresses in delicate floral prints paired with studded, leather belts creates a whimsical, prairie-inspired look.  The effortless feel comes from relaxed silhouettes, loosely woven knits, and raw hems.  Creative director Lorenzo Serafini used mid-wash denim similar to Resene Azure, and crafted a variety of unusual pieces which all featured raw hemming.  A denim corset top, shorts, and a ruffled jacket added a modern edge to the light, feminine collection.

Modern sportswear categorized the aesthetic of Courrèges SS17.  The clean lines and slim cuts were reminiscent of 1960’s futurism, which was favoured by designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant.  Only one garment featured raw edged denim; straight-cut jeans with a small front slit, in a wash close to Resene Double Alabastor.  These jeans demonstrated the subtly of raw hemmed denim, as the hem was only softly distressed, and exuded understated refinement.  Courrèges’ collection utilized a variety of fabrics, from suede to sequins, and was mainly unified by the similar cut and styling of the garments.

Versus Versace’s SS17 collection featured modern, grunge looks in a striking palette.  The street-ready collection mixed distressed denim, black riveted leather, khaki green puffer jackets, and buttercup yellow accents.  The result was a bold, fresh collection which is eminently wearable, and a continuation of the current 2000’s norm-core revival.  Distressed denim was conspicuous and androgynous, shown in light washes, akin to Resene Cut Glass, with raw hems completing the edgy, unkempt look.

Roberto Cavalli’s SS17 collection, expertly created by Peter Dundas, epitomized the bohemian-inspired luxurious style with which the brand has become synonymous.  In traditional Cavalli style; the skinny scarves, flared jeans, and intricately-embellished, floaty fabrics were plentiful.  Dundas was inspired by fringing, which was employed throughout the collection.  Jeans were crafted with a variety of embellishments, though the flared silhouette was uniform.  One particular pair of jeans featured a swirled pattern, created by layering denims in varying washes across the leg of the jeans.  The carefully cut layers of denim had raw edges which accented the look, featuring mid and dark washes, including a wash similar to Resene Avalanche.

Tommy Hilfiger heaped on the nautical embellishments for SS17 TommyxGigi collection.  Thick fishermen’s sweaters, anchor prints, neck scarves and practical flat slip-ons were appropriate for the Manhattan Pier  location.  The palette of navy, red and white was typical of Hilfiger, and perfectly matched to the nautical theme.  Denim garments were in dark washes close to Resene Biscay, and all had raw hems with minimal distressing.

Californian surfer styling was the main reference made by Alexander Wang in his collaboration with Adidas for SS17.  Fluorescent splashes of colours combined with a monochromatic palette gave the collection a fresh, electric feel, and was shown as block colour and within patterns.  Distressed denim shorts with a raw hem employed this palette, with a black and fluorescent pink (similar to Resene Glamour Puss) wave pattern on white shorts.

The Marques’ Almeida SS17 collection was sumptuous, punk, and eclectic; and inspired by ‘real girls’, according to designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida.  Baroque-inspired prints mixed with ruched metallics, and silky torn negligées, and created an unexpectedly cohesive aesthetic.  Denim items had oversized cuts, and exaggeratedly distressed raw hems in light, youthful washes - akin to Resene Breathless.

Military themes were predominant at Each X Other, taking in concepts from camo print, to berets.  The SS17 collection was small and curated, with each piece having a distinct purpose in broadening the message of the collection.  Featuring precise tailoring, and classic cuts, the modern feel came from subtle raw edged denim, stretch jersey dresses and printed hoodies.  Light wash denim, much like Resene Blue Moon, added youth to the collection, and balanced the refined palette.