Glossed Over

While it may seem high gloss fashion is relegated to patent leather and pvc jackets, designers have pushed the envelope and presented an array of multi-coloured and diverse range of glossed over runway creations.

Design can be as simple as taking a traditional garment and silhouette, and refabricating it in something completely different. This was the method for this Proenza Schouler jacket, which at first glance may not seem all too original, but as it moves and catches the light, the high gloss finish on the PVC in a colour similar to Resene Alamo.

“It’s about control and release. Last season we were peeling away the layers, this season we were putting them back together again,” said Lazaro Hernandez, designer, Proenza Schoulder.

Another case of replicating something in new material comes from Burberry, which showed its regular line of trench coats with the addition of a glossed dark navy fabric in a colour akin to Resene Redemption Blue cc. The inclusion of an otherwise unusual fabric makes sense when considering Christopher Bailey, ceo and chief creative officer, drew inspiration from David Bowie. Along with Bowie’s influence, there were elements of ‘70s glam-rock alongside the inevitable tomboy attitude.

Described as the French Ski Team coming together with old Atari graphics, creative director, Felipe Oliveira has produced a collection for Lacoste that not only respects is sportwear roots, but helps deliver it into contemporary design. Oliveira took a different path with his colour choices this reason, thanks in part to the video game inspiration, which let to a bright orange three quarter dress executed in a colour comparable to Resene Adrenalin.

Set in the picturesque venue of The Grand Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons of the State of New York, Creature of the Wind invited its guests not only to a night of fashion, but a visual experience that stepped beyond the clothes themselves. While the collection was more subdued than that of previous shows, designers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters still had an element of surprise, presenting a deep red glossed over dress that almost matched the red of the carpet covering the entire venue. Parallel in colour to Resene Bullseye, the dress added to the distinct retro-spirited emotion of the collection, an emotion that Gabier and Peters are developing into a signature for the brand.

Perhaps the most conceptual of the brands, Tome presented silhouettes that tested the boundaries of the PVC fabrication with miraculous results.

“We wanted something light for heavy times,” said Ryan Lobo, designer, Tome.

Lobo talked about how the collection is derivative of real world problems including climate change, political and social upheaval, the American election, and the situation in the Middle East. It is no surprise then that the colour palette was distinctly dark, with the black PVC replicating the colour Resene All Black cc. Although, fellow designer Ramon Martin cited additional influences.

“We started going back to all of our references that we love and that we began with like Annie Lennox and Vivienne Westwood. Westwood’s work just felt so liberating and we wanted to feel the same too, break new ground, make it feel different and still be us,” said Martin.