Working through lightness and touch Mame Kurogouchi’s SS26 collection used fabric technique as the quiet centre of each look.
It read as quiet and deliberate, with detail revealed at up close rather than through spectacle.
Shapes were slim and elongated. Dresses followed the line of the body, opening at the hem for movement. Jackets were cropped and neat, paired with narrow skirts or trousers that widened slightly at the ankle. When volume appeared it was contained in sleeves or panels, placed for flow rather than display. The result was controlled without stiffness.
Fabric choice carried the narrative. Sheer knits, lace and fil coupé contrasted with cotton and matte silk. Cutwork panels traced around seams or opened discreetly across the torso. The textiles often set the tone before the silhouette, giving the collection depth without excess detail.
The colour palette stayed muted. Ivory, stone and pale almond dominated, with deeper tones of ink and moss used sparingly. This allowed texture to be the focus. The effect was measured, with surface detail providing interest.
Accessories were functional and discreet. Low shoes, compact bags and minimal jewellery supported the clothes rather than competing with them. Hair and make-up stayed natural, leaving space for the fabrics to register clearly.
Where the collection slipped was in repetition. Several column dresses looked too similar, and lighter lace pieces felt fragile beside the stronger cotton and silk garments. When tailored separates returned to the line-up the balance was restored.
Overall, Mame Kurogouchi SS26 offered a wardrobe shaped by craft and texture. It let the textile lead the impression, producing clothes that moved easily while retaining structure. The strongest looks balanced delicacy with control, designed for repeated wear rather than occasion. It was a collection that asked to be seen closely, and one that trusted its fabrics to do the work.
