Designer Focus: Ainsley Sargent and Kathryn Dawson, Paper Scissors Cloth

Papers Scissors Cloth is the collaboration of Ainsley Sargent and Kathryn Dawson, who were brought together by their mutual passion for clothing design. 

While the duo initially followed different career paths, with Sargent spending over ten years in London within the health sector, and Dawson managing an eco-fashion boutique in Canada, they instantly bonded when they met in New Zealand. 

“When I returned to New Zealand in 2020, I knew I couldn’t return to my previous job, and it was time to finally pursue my real passion,” explained Sargent.

"Although I continued in fashion retail and design, I was at a crossroads and began considering a complete career 180 when life brought me to New Zealand," shared Dawson.

Dawson's desire to create an independent fashion label was spurred by her experience running the boutique, where she struggled with the glaring truth that the majority of people didn’t understand or appreciate the value of skill that goes into making a garment.

Similarly, Sargent was interested in returning to her passion for fashion, which was reignited in London being surrounded by easy access to sewing and knitting workshops and courses.

Together, the duo wanted to challenge the home sewing community to re-think what it means to knit and provide designer quality fabrics, as opposed to the reputation that homemade garments are baggy and uncool.

“There is no reason why homemade garments shouldn’t be able to match high-end designer clothing, or even surpass it.”

Alongside their shared love for fashion, both Sargent and Dawson actively value sustainable practices.

“We only source fabric, yarn, and haberdashery from suppliers who are open and transparent about their production materials, their treatment of workers, and who share the same environmental and social values as us.” 

Prioritising transparency, their label, Papers Scissors Cloth aims to move away from the norms of the fashion industry and encourage other businesses to do the same. 

Dawson and Sargent draw inspiration from a diverse range of sewers and knitters. 

“We are both very drawn to Japanese fashion, with their modern, clean, over-sized silhouettes. This style really complements zero-waste sewing techniques.”

They also have been heavily influenced by European designers, sewists and knitters who have elevated home sewing and encouraged a new generation of makers.

While their creative process varies , they both believe the process isn’t always easy, but the learning experience they gain from making each and every garment is always worth the uphill battle. 

“We both feel super proud of what we have created so far and we can’t wait to see how it evolves and changes as it grows and our skills develop.” 

Operating Paper Scissors Cloth has also been no easy feat for Sargent and Dawson. As they both have young families, the duo have to balance motherhood and all the roles that come with owning an independent fashion label. Not only are Sargent and Dawson designing and constructing garments, but they are also coming up with marketing strategies, managing their social media, designing their website and balancing the check books.

“I don’t think a single business meeting has gone uninterrupted by the needs of a small child,” added Sargent.

Moving forward, they both hope to open their own retail space.

"Online shopping is very convenient but nothing beats seeing and touching fabric and yarn with your own hands."

The pair also wants to actively support the makers community by creating a space for local knitters and sewers to come together through workshops and events. 

When asked what advice the duo has for budding designers, they said to ask the questions and demand the answers.

“Educate yourself about the facts around fast fashion and the damage that it is doing to the environment and people.”

“So we say stick to your values, be transparent with customers, and be proud to make it better.”